Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Practical Applications for Arabic!


The other night I was relaxing after dinner when my 16-year-old host brother called me over. He was in urgent need of my translation skills.

                The problem? He was playing a violent video game (Freedom Fighter), and all the dialogue was in English.  “Now that you’ve found the C4,” grumbled a scruffy man in the game, “all you’ve gotta do is blow up the gas station!” We didn’t exactly learn this vocab in class. Nevertheless, I stumbled through it in Arabic. “You know the place where…. for example… cars go…. for petroleum? You must make it go like this!” (accompanied by a vigorous charade for an explosion). And so on.

                I have my Arabic teacher, Brahim, to thank for my translation successes. I have no idea how to say “gas station” or “explode” or “grenade” in Arabic, but Brahim has taught me to express myself without necessarily knowing the vocabulary. (After all, if we speak English in class we are forced to do push-ups!) Of course I’ve learned a lot of grammar and vocabulary from Arabic class, but one of the greatest skills I’ve been learning is expressing myself without knowing all the right words. Descriptions (“gas station” = “the place where cars go for petroleum”) and charades go a long way. Shukran ya ustath!  

Monday, November 28, 2011

Thanksgiving Lessons--Rachel Sandman

     When brainstorming ideas for my blog post this past week, I thought I would write a post on the lessons in Moroccan culture and cooking our group would learn on our Moroccan Thanksgiving, which we celebrated this Sunday.  However, our Moroccan Thanksgiving came and went and, to my surprise, bad food and cultural faux paus were not part of our celebration. The lessons we learned instead were ones of much greater value.
   
     1-Reaping the Rewards of Hard Work:
             For most of us, this was the first time we were in charge of Thanksgiving and the responsibility of producing a thanksgiving dinner for thirty people in a foreign country was quite intimidating to say the least. In Morocco, canned goods, instant stuffing, ready-to-go seasoning, shelled and chopped nuts and mixes for breads and cakes cannot be found. Ovens that are big enough to fit a whole turkey and have knobs that indicate the oven temperature and measuring cups were also few and far between. As a result, each and every person in our group not only had to be extremely creative to produce a Thanksgiving dinner, but we also had to put long hours into cooking and working together as a team. After a week of altering recipes, inviting guests, grocery shopping (which is MUCH easier said than done in Morocco) and cooking, we finally sat down to eat on Sunday. Lahamdullilah (Thanks be to God), every dish was delicious and some people even said our group's cooking was better than their Grandmas'. Of course, the atmosphere of great accomplishment made the meal tastier.


     2- The REAL reason why we celebrate Thanksgiving:

            Earlier in the month, as thanksgiving was approaching, everyone's concerns seemed to be centered around A) getting a turkey, B) pecan pie and C) how we were going to cook for thirty people. Up until Thanksgiving this year, few people had celebrated Thanksgiving away from their families and/or in a third world country. Although it was an obvious reality, it still shocked many of us into realizing the value of family and food. Due to our ability to work together extremely well, our group got a turkey, pecan pie and served thirty people ( and even had food left over). However, even after many hours of work and stuffing ourselves as everyone should on Thanksgiving, the "Holiday feeling" was not there. This was mainly because, just around the corner, there were women with babies tied to their backs begging for food, young men with knives fighting over one dirham and old men with disabilities that could easily be fixed, but their families did not have the time nor the money to care for them. You could say that the fact that we were so full we could barely walk, while these people were starving was kind of killing the holiday joy. That is when Nora Wienman, one of our most trusted go-to person for questions and advice about Morocco, suggested that we pack up the leftovers to bring to a charitable organization. We enthusiastically agreed and soon enough, around twenty heaping plates of turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, green beans, salad, deviled eggs, homemade bread, pecan pie and pumpkin pie were sitting in the kitchen of a boarding house for thirteen to twenty three year olds who are living in Marrakesh to pursue a higher education than the one available to them in their small villages. Because the residents of the boarding house were our age, it was surprisingly easy to imagine their reality of living far from their families without being able to contact them and not having enough food to fill one's belly. I am truly thankful I have never had to go hungry or sacrifice my relationship with my family for my own well-being. Although this year's Thanksgiving was not traditional or entirely American, I have learned the importance of this holiday and the value of my family and not going hungry.

Friday, November 25, 2011

Elections- Joe



Unfortunately this isn't my picture, but this is a ubiquitous sight here in Marrakech.  These are painted in each voting district to signify which parties are angling to represent that are. The elections were today and they've been a bit anticlimactic.  Apparently only 24% of the population voted, which was disappointing for the few people that are really passionate about politics.  I've been greeted with a mixture of apathy, ignorance, enthusiasm, and anger when I ask Moroccans about the elections.  The one thing that is almost unanimous is a lack of confidence in politicians.  They're widely viewed as greedy, selfish, and corrupt.  Many people justify voting for opposing parties by saying that they just want to give someone else a chance- maybe a new party can get something done, even if its not that appealing ideologically.  We find out tomorrow who won the elections.  The results could signal widespread change or just more of the same.

The Trials and Tribulations of the Laundry Process By Bridget Granger



I had never anticipated that the weather would dictate when I am able to do laundry. That is, until I came to Morocco. Many Moroccan families do not own washing machines and even fewer own dryers. With this past week being so rainy I was not able to wash my growing mountain of dirty clothes. Today was the first sunny day in a while so I figured I would not chance waiting until tomorrow. My family has an extremely tiny washing machine (if you can even call it that) on the roof which holds virtually nothing. I was forced to do two loads which took me over two and a half hours! The first step is filling the machine up with water and detergent. I then put my clothes in and the machine "swished" them around for about fifteen minutes. After going through the machine I had to put them in a bucket of clean water and wash them out for a second time to rinse the soap out. Finally, after the bucket washing I was able to hang them up on the laundry strings to dry. I think it's safe to say that us Americans are spoiled with our modern laundry washing ways.

6 Most Useful Darija (Moroccan Arabic) Words

By. Kaylah Cruz-Herrera

Moroccan Survival 101:  it's okay to share a taxi with strangers, only tip a couple of dirhams, and know these words!

(Please excuse the transliteration.  Darija isn't written in the Arabic alphabet, let alone the English one!)

1.  Sh-weeeee-ah. / Bi-zzzeff!

Little/Big  Use these words in any situation.  Abverb, adjective, exclamation... you name it.  You should also use hand gestures to emphasize your point.

2.  Feeen...?

Where is...?  Use this word for practical reasons and, if you're like me, if you want people to think you speak more Arabic than you really do.  If you ask in Arabic, then the response will be in Arabic.  Just nod you're head and pray that they use hand gestures that point you in the right direction.

3.  Saah-fee.

Enough/That's good/It's alright/Stop  Use this for anything and everything.  Taxi drivers, waiters, hanoot (cornerstore) guys, family members, small children... The list goes on.  I'm pretty that I use this word out of context all of the time, but it still works!

4.  Kh-dem-al-count-oor!

Turn on the counter.  There is only one place to use this expression, but it is vital!!!  In a taxi, say this as soon as possible.  Don't be rude about it, though!  Most drivers will turn it on, but if they don't (which usually only happens if you're in a really touristy area), just say BSLAAAMAH! and jump out.

5.  Laah-bes?

How are you?/Are you alright?/Are you okay?  Always say this when greeting someone.  Also say this when you think someone needs a friend.

6.  Maah-fah-hemt-shhh!

I don't understand.  Sometimes you speak Arabic so well that people are convinced that you're better than you actually are.  Unfortunately, this can be a problem when they try to start a deep conversation with you.  Politely say this and try the convo again.

Wood Carving-By Cassie

             One of our electives that has become a huge part of  my experience in Morocco is decorative wood carving. Every Thursday a group goes out to a small wood carving factory just outside of Marrakech and learns how to carve wood by hand from the men who are masters and do this for a living. It was been such a unique and wonderful opportunity, and I personally have become so infatuated with the art form that I go out at least two days a week-one week I went out 4 days in a row-about 15 to 20 hours total that week wood carving. I have been working with the same man every time, Larby, who I would say is the best and most experienced carver employed there. Although we have a huge language barrier-he doesn't speak any English and my Arabic lacks basic carpentry vocabulary for some reason-we are able to communicate well by speaking through the wood. This sounds cheesy perhaps, but there's really no other way to put it. I watch his skilled hands intensely and then try to replicate what I see. He guides my hands to teach me what it should feel like. In the beginning it was much harder to communicate, but now that I have spent an inordinate amount of time learning with him I feel as though we have our own wood-based language. This aspect of wood carving in and of itself has been very interesting-learning a difficult handicraft without words. But I feel I have reached a level of proficiency that I can take this back to the US and pursue it at home. It will be challenging without an usted mizean (excellent teacher), or any usted at all, but I am buying tools here and bringing back stencils and inshallah (God willing) I will be able to advance on my own.
               The type of wood carving I'm referring to involves no electronic equipment. You first draw a stencil onto a piece of wood. Then use a small chisel and hit it with another block of wood following the stencil. Then you carve out what you don't want. Then repeat this so as to make all of the lowered parts smooth and even. Then, once the basic design is raised from the wood, you use different blades to plane the wood and smooth it out, rounding it and adding dimension, leaves, scrolls, and generally making it beautiful. This last step is by far the most challenging and takes the most practice. You must do it in in direct motions or it won't be smooth, and if you don't use the right amount of pressure you can accidentally shave off a part of the design you wanted to keep-this is infinitely frustrating after putting many hours into a design, but Larby is also teaching me to smooth over my mistakes.
              I'm proud of how much I've improved at wood carving in a short amount of time, and I love everything about it. It is so relaxing and wonderful to get intimately aquatint with a block of wood and make something beautiful out of nothing, putting all of your focus into making one small curl or leaf look perfect. The fact that I've been exclusively carving on the wonderfully fragrant cedar adds to the bliss, and this will forever be one of my favorite smells. I've always enjoyed industrial arts-I did glass fusing for my senior project-and I am so excited to continue this hobby (and maybe career?) throughout my life. 

Thursday, November 24, 2011

EIS - Melanie Bahti

For this blog post I'm going to talk about one of the projects on which I've been working with some of the other people from the group. Aside from studying, we are all doing some form of community service or social work in Marrakesh. I've been working on a project with some of my friends called Élève Innovateur Social (EIS). The project, which in English is translated Students for Social Innovation, operates in Moroccan high schools to teach entrepreneurship and leadership skills in the context of a national competition for social projects in each school. Their goals, officially, are:
  1.  To build and strengthen the capacity of social activists as a force in the transfer of knowledge and in coaching young people. 
  2.  To raise awareness of the principles of social entrepreneurship as an effective tool for the development of a community of 100 teachers and professionals in education 
  3. To encourage and inspire 320 young people between the ages of 15 to 18 years and to involve them in the challenge of the designing and implementing constantly evolving community projects.

Last year, the winning high school was Muahidine in Marrakesh. For their project, they set up an investment bank within their school, and invested people's money in a snack bar at their school. With the profits, they were able to buy bicycles and bus passes for students who live far away and can't afford transportation. The key to this project's success was that it was both innovative and had a direct impact on the school - the money came from the students, and was invested by the students, who used the profits generated to help other students directly.
This organization is relatively new. Last year there were teams from only six Marrakshi high schools, and this year we've expanded that number to ten, in the hopes that it will grow more in the future. The schools will compete against one another in a regional competition, and the winner will advance to the national competition along with winners from Casablanca and other cities.
Our work with the organization has many facets. We have meetings weekly, and right now we're organizing an open house conference to mark the official kick-off of the competition. Some of the work that we do is focussed on the logistics of things like the conference and our visits to schools. In the schools we're currently in the process of finding teachers to supervise the projects in each school, and of selecting the students to be on each team. This involves visiting the schools once a week or more, communicating with teachers and administrators, and presenting information about EIS to students.
Another part of our work with EIS has to do with the philosophy behind the organization. We really want the process of coming up with a project to be a learning experience for the students, and for them to feel inspired to work for social development in the future. To that end, we want the projects to be really connected to the school, for their effects to be long lasting and respond to real needs in the community, and for the students to learn to think creatively to find ways to meet these needs.
I've really enjoyed working on this project for several reasons. It's been a great way to get to know more Moroccans around my age (the people coordinating EIS in Marrakesh are university and high school students), and to see more of Marrakesh by visiting schools. I've enjoyed hearing about the projects that students have come up with in the past, and it's given me more insight into Moroccan society. I also really like learning about the educative system in Morocco, which I'll get to continue in a few weeks - one of the guys in EIS has made arrangements for me and a few others to visit his nursery and primary schools so we can get more insight.
Here's a link to more information about the group. It's been amazing to work with them so far and I'm sad that I won't be able to keep working on it for very long, since I'm leaving soon.
EIS Facebook Page

Monday, November 21, 2011

Moroccan cooking class- by Shannon

    I remember when a teacher, via Skype interview, here at school asked me if I might be interested in participating in a cooking class. I was ecstatic! He said that the electives were not confirmed at the moment but there were some suggestions from the group that kept coming up. I emphatically said yes, in hopes that I might convince him to make cooking a cemented elective. 
    To my happy surprise, upon arrival at the CLC in mid-September, cooking was offered every Tuesday for three hours. It sounded time consuming but totally worth it. 
    I attended the first class, where we made mahsiman with melted butter and honey. It was mouth-watering. That first class we watched our teacher, the CLC's beloved cook, expertly fold the dough. How could I not want to come back? I wanted to be able to cook like her in the future. Now, in class, we chop and grate along side our teacher. It's incredible how much we already know.
    The class took up most of my evening, and in the beginning of the program, I didn't know if such a schedule was what I wanted. In fact, there was a day that I almost gave it up because it was time-consuming. I thought my time might be better spent studying. 
    In the end, I stuck with it. I feel like I understand the culture and lifestyle of Moroccans so much better, as a result. Seeing how the same ingredients transfer from one recipe to the next, how easy it actually it is to cook the food, my concept of cooking completely changed. Sometimes, the simplicity of the ingredients speaks the most. Moroccans uncannily create filling meals with three or four ingredients. I love that!
    To give you an overview (and maybe to give you a future meal idea), here are the things we've cooked so far:
-mahsiman
-beef with prunes
-kefta tajine
-bghrir
-lentils
-flatbread
-harira soup
-white beans
-chocolate cake
-fruit-tarts

There are plenty of recipes online, check them out. I am so happy I know how to cook them now and I'm sure you would be, too!



My Sheep! By Char B.


Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Sahara highlights--Heather Jackson

This is our group at the library.  It was amazing learn about the different books that are housed there (some are the oldest in Morocco etc)!


 This is the beautiful hotel we arrived at after 8 long hours of driving.  While we enjoyed delectable Moroccan food we saw plates of spagetti and french fries, which just shows how much we have assimilated to Morocco:)
We got the chance to ride camels for 2 hours to our camp sight located in the Dunes of the Sahara! It was bumpy at first, but was definately worth it!

And finally, my favorite memory from our Sahara trip was getting to trudge up a sand dune at o'dark early in the morning to watch the breathtaking view of the sunrise over the sand dunes!


I hope this captures some of our amazing journey to the Sahara...words just don't do our experience justice.  Enjoy!

Love,
Heather Jackson

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Halloween- Joe

A few Sundays ago we Americans managed to throw together a small Halloween party in a country that definitely does not celebrate Halloween.  In the absence of Halloween stores and costume shops, we went to our supermarket Marjane and did some old-school improvising.  Costumes included butterflies, superheroes, host siblings, hippies and a hanoot.  We planned to start the festivities here at the clc at 4:00pm.  We waited at our stations, disappointed that no one was there, until we remembered that this is Morocco, and people don't show up until at least thirty minutes after something starts.  When they did, we had a blast.  Games included bobbing for apples, mummy wrapping (oddly this was probably the most expensive game, toilet paper ain't cheap), and mystery food feeling.  The pictures below are of a game we invented.  It was supposed to be eat a donut off a string, but the Moroccan version is Hobz eating off a line.  It was great to share an American holiday with our Moroccans friends and remind ourselves of home. 


 

Henna

Post by Kaylah Cruz-Herrera
We had to agree on a lot of rules before we came to Morocco.  One of them was "No tattoos".  But, they never mentioned henna.  Ten dirhams ($1.25 ish) will get you one of these beautiful creations.  Just sit down in the medina for about 30 seconds and voila!!  (P.S. Yes, this is a picture of NSLI-Y students, but it isn't mine.  Sorry, Lily, but I stole this from your Facebook!!)

Monday, November 14, 2011

Arabic Mistakes by Sarah


One of my favorite things about learning languages is making funny mistakes. (Not on purpose, of course!) There are few things as funny as a good linguistic error; and, on the educational side, retelling the stories of your errors solidifies the correct phrase or word.

Lucky for me, I make a lot of mistakes. There was the time last summer, in Tajikistan, when I tried to ask a girl in Tajiki, “Do you want to take a husband (i.e. get married)?” In fact, I asked her “Do you want to EAT a husband?” Maybe I haven’t quite matched the hilariousness of that mistake here in Morocco, but here are two contenders. (My two classmates, Emi and Shannon, have heard these already.)

1.       THE WOLF

Early in the program, my Arabic level was pretty far below that of my classmates and my class. Often, I could only pick up a little of what was being said. Anyway, one day, my teacher, Brahim, asked us in Arabic, “What’s your favorite hiwaya?” My friend Shannon answered first, and I didn’t really understand her answer. Then Brahim asked me about my favorite hiwaya.

                Hiwaya… I had learned that word the other day. Animal. I asked in Arabic, “Teacher, how do you say ‘wolf’?”

                “Wolf? Why?”

                He—and Shannon and Emi—were giving me the strangest looks.

                “Yes, wolf! My favorite hiwaya is wolf.”

                Someone broke out in incredulous English, “Your favorite hobby is wolf?!”

Yeah… turns out hiwaya is hobby; animal is hiyawan. Oops.   

2.       HAJJ

A few weeks later, my classmates were sick, so I had a one-on-one class with Brahim. At one point I asked (in Arabic, of course) what he had done after class the day before. I didn’t understand every word of my teacher’s answer, but I got the gist of it; he had talked on the phone with his friend. The friend really wanted to go to Mecca (this was the time of year, after all, when everyone was talking about making the hajj), but couldn’t, because he was busy.

                I was really sorry to hear this and began an outpour of sympathy. “Oh, poor man,” I said. “But inshallah he can go next year?”

                Brahim looked extremely confused. “Next year?”

                “Yes! Inshallah he can go next year!” I really didn’t see what was so strange about what I was saying.

                “To the…. maqha?”

                I turned red. In fact Brahim’s friend hadn’t wanted to go to Mecca; he wanted to go to a maqha, a café. “Poor man!” I had exclaimed. “Maybe he can go to the café next year—inshallah!!!”


Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Shopping for Sheep - Charlotte C


       Who knew there could be a Souk or market for just one product? Well, anyone in Morocco or around the developing world lives that way all the time, with shops next to each other, selling identical wares. However, what I did not know was you can have Souks that only sell SHEEP. This coming Monday is the main day of Eid Kabir, a huge Muslim holiday that commemorates the story of Abraham being asked to sacrifice his son Ishmael and taking him up to the mountain but God/Allah saves his son by replacing him with a sheep to sacrifice. Eid Kabir is the culmination of the year for herders who probably make a bundle since every family in Morocco and other parts of the Muslim world will all have to buy a sheep. The sheep will be sacrificed in the family home, skinned, and the organs prepared in specific ways and shared with family. Its a huge ordeal that I have yet to witness at the time I was writing this but I'm sure it will be perceived by 17 different perspectives in the coming week.
       Anyway, the past couple of days have been prime sheep-purchasing days. My host family claims the whole city smells like sheep. On the roads you can see cheep being pulled into houses, driven in the backs of trucks or normal cars (my family says that will make the sheep smell stick for way longer than you can handle), pushed in carts, pulled on trailers behind motorbikes, or carried on the motorbike itself. The discontented bleat/croak of disgruntled and overly-handled sheep is commonplace. 
        But tonight I personally went to one of the places where the madness begins. Herders from the country bring in their herds on huge trucks to sell in cities like Marrakech. The Sheep Souk near my house consisted of men standing and holding their sheep for display, people looking to buy, and those transporting their sheep home. Sheep can be displayed in a number of ways, on a truck or on a leash. There are huge sheep that some up past my hips and could probably push me down and then much smaller sheep. They have to be checked thoroughly before the purchase because you want one with a good shape, well taken care of, with good teeth and large horns, and for the best price. People run around feeling sheep hips and picking them up to test the weight. Once they've found the right one, they can get someone to carry it on a cart or they just sling it over their shoulders. Some try to urge the sheep in the correct direction which does not tend to work and thus they pick up the back legs and push the sheep like a wheel barrel. Even after all of that we did not find the perfect sheep and we will have to go back tomorrow. 

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Our Eid Experience by Negina and Lilly

As you know, the holiday Eid Kabeer is going on right now and you got some good background info on what it's all about from Rachel's post a few days ago. Yesterday was the first of the holiday's four days and it was incredible. Lilly and I experienced so many new things that we wanted to do our best sharing them with you in a joint post.

We woke up around 6:30 yesterday to get ready for morning prayer. Us, our two host sisters, their dad, and our host brother-in-law drove to the oldest mosque in Marrakech where hundreds and hundreds of people were looking for a spot to lay their prayer rugs out on the cement and dirt grounds. First, there were numerous lines of men, standing shoulder to shoulder, ready for the prayer to come on. And us women weren't too far behind them. We followed along to the traditional morning prayer and also stayed for a specific prayer for Eid that came on afterwards.

Once we got home, our host mom had an amazing breakfast ready for us. There were cakes, and breads, and soups, and cookies that our sisters (and us for the most part) made in the days leading up to yesterday. We were warned that food was what the day would center around and that is exactly what we got. While eating, we still had planted in the backs of our minds that the sheep sacrifice was bound to happen within the next couple of hours... and there came our host brother, calling us all up to the roof, announcing that they were ready.

Negina and I were getting pretty nervous as were standing there with the butcher and his son. They were there for the skinning and to take the insides out, but the real sacrifice was done by our brother. We had our cameras ready and my eyes were glued on the knife in Hassan's hand right when he touched it to the sheep's fur. Negina looked away until the cutting was over and then all we saw was blood. Hassan seemed like he knew what he was doing because the sheep didn't suffer really at all. The whole process afterwards took about twenty minutes and then we took the bowls of insides to the kitchen where they were chopped up and prepared for the day's lunch. Our host brother-in-law, Negina, and I couldn't bring ourselves to eat the gizzards, so the family kindly made us some delicious chicken kabobs and pasta. 

We finished the night off with going to their extended families' homes and it was nice to see how close they all are. Now we're in day two of Eid; can't wait to see what's for lunch today!

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Beach Haikus - Cassie

This past Saturday, Oct 29th, our group went to a beautiful beach in Esfee. I was really excited about this because I hadn't swam in the ocean since I was in 5th grade. I feel the spirituality and beauty of the beach is best described through poetry, so I wrote a couple haikus about my experience.

Title: Sea Urchins

Old man's livelihood.
Spiky new experience.
Slimy but tasty.

Title: Playing in the Waves

Sand in all places.
Getting knocked off of my feet.
The most fun all day.

Title: Shells

Scouring the ground.
Searching for nature's treasures.
I found the best one.

Title: Landscape

Endless water world.
The sunset of all sunsets.
Waves crash on the beach.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Schools in Morocco - Emi



During our trip to the mountains, we saw two different schools – the public school where students have two hours of class each day with a dedicated but overworked teacher, and the private school where art and lots of outdoor time supplement the regular curriculum. Since then, I’ve encountered a lot of the aspects of schooling in Morocco, and that’s what I’ll post about today!

We attend Arabic lessons at the CLC (Center for Language and Culture), a private institution whose main purpose is teaching English to Moroccans that also hosts a number of student groups from the US throughout the year (ours being the only one now). The students are of all ages, children through adult, and from most social backgrounds. The school aged children attend a range of schools – public and private. Our host siblings, who are all or have all been students at the CLC, attend different schools all over the city.

The public school system in Morocco is greatly influenced by the French. It starts with kindergarten, elementary school, three years in middle school and three years in high school. Students must pick a specialty before their first year of high school, at age 14 or 15. Specialties vary, including economics, mathematics and science, literature, and experimental science. These are the most popular choices according to the Moroccan youth I’ve spoken to, but there are other, less chosen options including technology and art.
The most important part of schooling in Morocco is the Baccalaureate at the end of “lycee” (high school). One recent high school graduate said it was more important than a PhD. Without a good grade on the Bacc, it is hard to enter university in the most valued fields – Economics and the sciences.

Another interesting aspect of school here are the subjects that people value. Teachers and students alike have told me that literature is more of a “slacker” subject for some, because it requires less studying.  It has no minimum required grade on the baccalaureate to enter university, whereas economics and especially the sciences do. When I talk to people about what I study, they automatically assume economics or business, and it seems as though the majority of our host siblings are studying econ! A Moroccan teacher was lamenting this imbalance of value – he said that public universities of science receive more funding and attention from the government than others. He especially worried about Quranic studies receiving the least attention, least funding, and students with the worst grades. He suggested that may create a more conservative and uneducated focus for religious scholars in Morocco.

Private schools are a large presence in Morocco. Public schooling is generally not reputed to be of excellent quality, so many parents who value education make a huge effort to send their kids to private school or private English lessons at places like the CLC. There are a variety of private schools in Marrakesh for all ages, and in fact, a Nun-run Catholic private school is right across the street from the CLC. My Arabic teacher sends his children there and said that almost all of the students are Muslim, and since the school doesn’t teach Catholicism it is a good choice for children of all religions in contrast to some of the public school options. At a high school level, I have met students who attend the private French high school (Lycee Victor Hugo) and my host siblings attend the American School of Marrakesh. These are more costly than the other private schools but are very helpful for students wishing to attend university abroad. Public schools in Morocco do prepare students to enter the French system because they both use the baccalaureate test, but most students stay in country for their undergraduate studies.

In Moroccan schools, children begin learning both Arabic and French from the start of their education, and are required by the national curriculum to add English beginning in seventh grade. Some students even add on Spanish or German. This is on top of the colloquial dialect, Darija, which is spoken at home and in the streets. We have earned respect from Moroccans for learning Arabic simply because they value language so much – they are used to tourists not speaking a word of Arabic or Darija.

This was just a summary of the basics. There are so many details that are impossible to take in just by knowing the facts. I hope to post a “part 2” with more information on how Moroccan schools relate to Moroccan culture.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

A New Holiday-Rachel Sandman

     The holiday season is off to a great start for all of us here at the Center for Language and Culture in Marrakesh.  On Sunday, a Halloween party was organized by the NSLI-Y students for our Moroccan colleagues. I was right at home among the familiar games, foods and traditions of Halloween and had lots of fun sharing the holiday with Morocco.  However, a much more exciting holiday has overshadowed  the "Halloween buzz".  Eid  Kabir, the Muslim Thanksgiving, is next week. This three day feast marks a celebration for the pilgrimage returnees that includes the entire Islamic world. On Eid Kabir, each Muslim family buys a sheep (or many sheep) to sacrifice in remembrance of Abraham's actions in the Koran. The particular story that is remembered tells of the time when Abraham received a message  from God, telling him to kill his only son, Issac. Abraham took Issac to the top of a mountain and prepared to do as the Lord told him. Upon seeing that Abraham obeyed him, God sent a ram to Abraham so he would not have to sacrifice his son. So, on Eid Kabir, Muslims sacrifice sheep to remember that obeying God is important. After the sheep sacrifice (which can be done by a butcher or the head of the family), people eat the entire sheep, starting with the insides on the first day and then with the meat for the following week. Each family keeps one third of the meat for themselves, give a third to their family and give a third to the poor.
    Needless to say, my American counterparts and I are very anxious and excited for this foreign holiday. The Moroccan's enthusiasm is contagious and we have already heard many stories of sheep sacrifices and celebrations that last for days. We are all mentally preparing ourselves for the moment to witness a sacrifice and  to eat parts of the sheep that we normally would not dream of tasting.  In moments like these I am reminded of the value of an exchange program as opposed to an Arabic classroom. Never in a million years would I have imagined a holiday like Eid Kabir and am sure it will be a memorable addition to my 2011 holiday season.





Sheep for sale outside of Marjan! (The "Walmart" of Marrakesh).

Photo by Melanie Bahti

***The information I present in this blog are conclusions I drew from talking to Muslim colleagues. I recognize that Eid Kabir traditions may vary across the Islamic world and am by no means an expert on this holiday.